At 2 a.m., Ms. Wu, an office worker, swiped through food options on her screen and bookmarked another "must-eat list" restaurant for the night. Her collection already housed several "internet-famous" eateries, with 30% of them being places she revisited frequently. In an era flooded with food exploration videos, the "must-eat list" has become a crucial guide for young people searching for good eats.

Open any food app, and you'll find a plethora of lists: must-eat lists, popularity rankings, praise leaderboards, check-in charts… Why are consumers so enthusiastic about these rankings? Do they truly represent the highest standards of culinary excellence?

Taking Dianping’s "Must-Eat List" as an example, this nationwide food selection ranking has expanded its reach to over 100 cities and regions for the first time, with restaurants from these areas making the list. Beyond covering surrounding districts and counties, nearly half of the featured establishments are affordable "local gems" with prices under 100 yuan, while traditional long-standing eateries also appear on the list—almost half of which are city-specific merchants. Data shows that after the annual list is released, online traffic to the listed merchants surges by nearly % year-over-year.

A newly listed restaurant manager revealed that the restaurant's exposure and customer traffic have significantly increased after making the list. "After being listed, our daily customer flow has nearly tripled, with many patrons coming specifically because of the ranking. Being on the list also enhances the restaurant's brand image and reputation, attracting more potential customers," the manager said with a smile. He joked that this has also made the owner of the neighboring restaurant determined to get listed, who is currently busy renovating the premises.

The "Must-Eat List" connects both dining establishments and consumers. When asked about their views on the Must-Eat List, some consumers mentioned that it provides them with a convenient reference for making choices, saving them time and effort in selecting restaurants. "Following the list at least ensures you won’t end up with a bad experience," said Ms. Wang, a frequent food enthusiast. She added that whenever a new restaurant appears on the list near her office building, she gathers a few friends to try it out.

However, many consumers also question the authenticity of the list. "A lot of the restaurants on the list are just average in taste and somewhat overpriced—it feels more like a marketing tactic," said a food enthusiast candidly. During interviews, reporters found that, comparatively, young people are more enthusiastic about the "Must-Eat List" and admit that choosing these restaurants is more for social sharing than purely for the culinary experience. One interviewee admitted frankly, "Checking in at a 'Must-Eat List' restaurant gets me more likes and comments on my social media posts."

Data from the National Bureau of Statistics shows that the annual catering revenue reached billion yuan, with a growth rate of %, significantly higher than the % growth rate of total retail sales of consumer goods. Meanwhile, the industry has been rife with news of store reshuffles and intense price competition. Statistics reveal that among the catering outlets closed in the year, trendy restaurants accounted for as much as %, with some even having a fleeting lifespan of just one month. Many of these short-lived establishments were once "darlings of the rankings." However, after the novelty fades, whether these listed eateries can transition from being "trendy" to "enduring" marks the true test of their staying power.

Ultimately, from a practical standpoint, a restaurant that offers delicious food at reasonable prices, excellent service, and ensures hygiene and safety, along with the added benefits of signature dishes, a compelling brand story, and a pleasant environment, will still be popular with consumers even if it doesn't make it onto any lists. A truly good restaurant is one that leaves consumers longing for its flavors even after they've left. In an era dominated by algorithms, this longing perhaps shouldn't be quantified by data, but rather entrusted to the most honest memories of the palate.