A glimpse of the morning market in Northeast China
The moon's Changchun was already deep in autumn. At dawn, the alarm clock roused me. I put on a thick冲锋衣, slung an empty bag over my shoulder, and stepped out the door, beginning my "long-planned" plan. My footsteps crunched through the path strewn with fallen leaves, rustling softly.
What plan drove me to "resolutely" climb out of my warm bed early in the morning and head outdoors where the temperature was only about seven or eight degrees Celsius? The answer is—the morning market, a place with a special emotional connection in the hearts of Northeasterners.
Early markets can be found all over the country, but the early market in Northeast China is the one I, as an outsider, am most eager to explore. This is because the Northeast early market is not only a grand gathering of various Northeast specialty products but also a way of life that Northeast people are passionate about. Here, one can get closer to Northeast China, to the ordinary life of Northeast people, and feel the unique depth and carefree spirit of this land.
Stepping onto Renmin Avenue, passing through People's Square, and crossing a few streets, the bustling noise of Yongxing Farmers' Market already reaches my ears from afar. I see many citizens already emerging from the morning market, their hands filled with large bags and bundles.
Stepping into the market, amidst the bustling crowd, the first thing that catches the eye is the "palette" composed of various fruits and local specialties. This season, the red lady fruits are vibrant and juicy, persimmons, and cornmeal radiate a dazzling golden hue, apple and grape stalls are a riot of colors, green vegetables with fresh soil clinging to their roots, and the vivid colors in the chilly late autumn air are pleasing to the eye. Each passionate moment of life, each vivid splash of color, together form the bustling atmosphere of the Northeast morning market.
I last visited this morning market a month ago when Northeast oil beans were in full season, covering the entire market with a vibrant green, visually stunning. The oil beans, with their unique dense texture, are endlessly satisfying and perfect for stewing with pork ribs or other meats, creating mouthwatering dishes. After tasting oil beans in Changchun, I became quite fond of their flavor and texture, so I went to the morning market to buy a few pounds and sent them to my family in Hebei for a taste. My parents, after trying them, were equally impressed, even saying that it had changed their perception of how delicious beans could be.
In addition to green beans, other native Northeast specialties are gaining national recognition through the merchants' diversified services and increasingly convenient logistics. "We have launched express delivery services, sending Northeast rice and corn grits to every corner of the country, and now our sales have increased even more!" A grain vendor happily showed me the orders on his phone, "Look, there's another customer from Beijing who ordered a kilo of corn grits, and we can ship it out today."
"Golden Delicious apples, super sweet!" "Green beans, six yuan each!" "Pure handmade dried tofu, just one yuan!" "Our persimmons are crispy and sweet!" "Old-fashioned cake, buy one jin and get half a jin free!" ... The air was filled with cheerful hawking, and the unique Northeastern accent added even more appeal to the already affordable prices. The vendors were not only enthusiastic but also demonstrated the Northeasterners' character through practices like bundling sales with freebies, offering free samples, and generously rounding down prices. I couldn't help but feel: "It's not that supermarkets are unaffordable; morning markets offer better value for money."
The hawking at the morning market not only stirs up my shopping desire but also conveys the warm affection of real life. "Child, put these fruits on our stall first, and take them with you when you leave." "Child, you can taste them before deciding whether to buy or not, it's okay if you don't buy." ... In the morning markets of Northeast China, young people are usually affectionately called "child" by older stall owners. The owner's words of care, a recommendation of their own goods, a round of bargaining, and other daily interactions add a few more authentic and precious life insights for me, the "child."
A wave of fragrance swept in, subtly awakening the keen sense of smell, the aroma of spices filled the air, the aroma of fried dough sticks tantalized the taste buds, and the scent of braised dishes wafted in all directions... These flavors dispersed in the wind, forming a symphony of taste. I passed through several bustling stalls, and a shop selling zha tiao came into view. Zha tiao is a type of noodle made from corn, one of the staple foods of Changchun people. After being cooked, it is topped with various braised sauces, offering a delicate and smooth texture.
Corn, as a major crop in Northeast China, transforms in various ways during the harvest season's morning markets, enriching people's palates. In addition to zha tiao (corn noodles), there are thick and sticky zha porridge, soft and glutinous steamed corn, sweet corn cakes... These culinary delights are thanks to the gifts of the Golden Corn Belt and the black soil. The zha tiao vendor warmly greeted me, "Child, would you like a bowl of zha tiao? Made fresh and cooked hot!" I nodded, found a seat, and waited for the deliciousness to arrive. The vendor then skillfully placed the zha tiao into boiling water, and in no time, scooped them out with a strainer, quickly rinsed them, and served them in a bowl. After pouring on the gravy and chili, a steaming bowl of zha tiao was presented before me. I gently stirred with chopsticks, ensuring each strand was coated with the sauce, then picked up a mouthful and felt a warm sensation.
Sitting beside them were an elderly couple, seemingly in their twilight years, their hands holding chopsticks slightly trembling, but their eyes brimming with smiles. Perhaps this was just an ordinary morning for them, but the sense of happiness they exuded was truly enviable.
Of course, the early market is dominated by middle-aged individuals who are the pillars of their families, taking care of the elderly, raising children, and managing a warm household with the essentials of life. The affordable prices and abundant variety at the early market are shopping opportunities they cannot afford to miss. A trip to the early market ensures that a family of several can be well-provided for in terms of meals for several days. Therefore, the early market serves as the source of basic necessities for many Northeastern families, its importance self-evident.
It can also be said that the morning market is life. By observing the people bustling through the morning market, from the satisfaction glowing on their faces, I can easily discern their love for life. They enjoy the fun of haggling, the excitement of finding good deals, the comfort of savoring delicious food, and the pleasure of wandering through the market. The naturally optimistic people of Northeast China never hide their true feelings; happiness should be displayed on their faces.
I strolled through the morning market, stopping and observing each person there with intent. This is life, this is the bustling human world. As a journalist, only by immersing myself in the lives of ordinary people can I truly sense the nuances, taste the joys and sorrows, sharpen my senses, and more objectively and authentically reflect the leaps and bounds of this era.
The sun rises, the chill dissipates, and warmth envelops me. With my heavy bags of harvest, it's time for me to return.